Stove top Mac N Cheese

If desired, top the mac with toasted bread crumbs just before serving.

Notes: Use a good melting cheese or combination thereof, like American, cheddar, Jack, Fontina, young Swiss, Gruyere, Muenster, young provolone, and/or young Gouda, among others (see "Cheese Chart," pages 717–21). To reheat the pasta, add a few tablespoons of milk to the pan and cook, stirring gently, over medium-low heat until hot.

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound elbow macaroni
Kosher salt
One 12-ounce can evaporated milk
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon Frank's RedHot or other hot sauce
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 pound extra-sharp cheddar cheese, grated (see Note above)
8 ounces American cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (see Note above)
1 tablespoon cornstarch
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 chunks

1. to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to keep the pasta from sticking. Cover the pan, remove from the heat, and let stand until the pasta is barely al dente, about 8 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together the evaporated milk, eggs, hot sauce, and mustard in a bowl until homogeneous. Toss the cheeses with the cornstarch in a large bowl until thoroughly combined.
3. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and return it to the saucepan. Place over low heat, add the butter, and stir until melted. Add the milk mixture and cheese mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the cheese is completely melted and the mixture is hot and creamy. Season to taste with salt and more hot sauce. Serve immediately, topping with toasted bread crumbs if desired.

STOVETOP MAC 'N' CHEESE WITH HAM AND PEAS

Stir in 1 cup cubed sauteed ham and 1 cup thawed frozen peas along with the milk and cheese mixtures in step 3.

STOVETOP MAC 'N' CHEESE WITH BACON AND PICKLED JALAPEÑOS

Slice 6 strips bacon into 1/2-inch-wide pieces, place in a large skillet with 1/2 cup of water, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Transfer the bacon and its rendered fat to a small bowl and set aside.

Follow the instructions for Stovetop Mac 'n' Cheese, reducing the butter to 6 tablespoons and stirring in the bacon, with its rendered fat, and 1/4 cup sliced pickled jalapeños along with the milk and cheese mixtures in step 3.

STOVETOP MAC 'N' CHEESE WITH BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER

Stir in 1 cup blanched broccoli florets and 1 cup blanched cauliflower florets along with the milk and cheese mixtures in step 3.

STOVETOP MAC 'N' CHEESE SUPREME PIZZA–STYLE

Replace half of the cheddar cheese with mozzarella. Stir in 1 ounce of Parmesan cheese grated, 8 ounces Italian sausage, cooked and crumbled, 1/4 cup pepperoni cut into 1/2-inch chunks, 4 ounces soppressata or salami, cut into 1/2-inch chunks, 1 cup roughly chopped drained canned tomatoes, 1/4 cup sliced pitted black olives, and 1/4 cup sliced jarred peperoncini, into the finished mac 'n' cheese. Top with chopped basil and drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

STOVETOP MAC 'N' CHEESE WITH GREEN CHILE AND CHICKEN

Replace the cheddar cheese with pepper Jack. Stir in 2 cups shredded cooked chicken (leftover or rotisserie from the supermarket), one 3 1/2-ounce can chopped green chilies (or 1/2 cup chopped roasted fresh green chilies), and 1 cup salsa verde into the finished mac 'n' cheese. Sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro and scallions.